Charles Hertel, whose family roots and fishing lines are cast deeply in the Keys, never planned on becoming a restaurateur as the chief executive officer and co-owner of Papa Joe’s Waterfront in Islamorada.
His mother, in fact, had jokingly advised Hertel against pursuing the restaurant business.
Papa Joe’s Waterfront co-owner Charles Hertel is a former charter boat captain who enjoys snagging Keys fish such as this handsome and sure-to-be tasty catch.
Credit: Charles Hertel
But Hertel’s obsession with — and imaginative vision of — cleaning up the scenic but trash-filled and dilapidated aging Papa Joe’s waterfront site at 79786 Overseas Highway ultimately resulted in the all-new, 13,000-square-foot Papa Joe’s Waterfront venue.
Opened March 1, 2024, the popular Islamorada dining stop on Upper Matecumbe Key (known locally as “Upper Mat”) is known for its sweeping sunset views of both the Atlantic Ocean and Florida Bay.
“We built it from the ground up, from 26 feet down to 48 feet above sea level,” Hertel said. “We’re a new restaurant; not a clone out of Miami.”
Today, Papa Joe’s Waterfront seats 130 indoors and 40 on the outdoor patio and features a large open Tiki bar fronting Florida Bay in the venue’s back called Papa Joe’s Backyard.
Charles Hertel (l), Papa Joe’s Waterfront co-owner, and Alan Wilkinson (r), Papa Joe’s executive chef, attended Coral Shores High School together, sitting at the same lunch table throughout high school. Credit: Charles Hertel
It’s also known by frequent loyal Keys and South Florida patrons for its high-quality hamburgers, won ton crusted seared yellowfin tuna entree, crab cakes and Everglades-style fish prepared with fried gator bites. Imbibers enjoy cocktails such as its Orange Crush, PJ Sunset and a variety of margaritas.
Friend Alan Wilkinson serves as executive chef. Hertel and Wilkinson sat together at the same lunch table throughout their high school days.
The legendary Papa Joe’s, originally built in 1938 as part of the Fowler’s Caribbee Yacht Basin, was a Keys institution and fishermen’s favorite watering hole until its demolition in 2011. Operating from 1968 until 2006, the original Papa Joe’s closed several years after the death of its second owner Frank Curtis, a friend of Hertel’s parents.
Charles Hertel, co-owner of Papa Joe’s Waterfront restaurant in Islamorada, enjoys taking his boat out with companion canines Boone and Cooper and a friend’s dog, Cooper’s sister JJ. Credit: Charles Hertel
Hertel’s parents Dorothy and George owned and operated Islamorada Fish Co. (first established in 1948), purchasing that waterfront establishment in 1981. Seventeen years later, they partnered with Johnny Morris’s Bass Pro Shops of Springfield, Missouri, and later sold it. Today, 16 Islamorada Fish Company restaurants are scattered across the country.
While the 31-year-old Hertel grew up in the business, he says it was never a career goal to pursue it after college.
Hertel graduated from the University of Central Florida in 2017 with a degree in business management. Lured by his passion for fishing, Hertel returned to the Keys and worked for several years as a backcountry fishing guide out of Bud ‘N Mary’s Marina, just a stone’s throw across the Overseas Highway from his restaurant.
Hertel’s discussions with older fishing guides — who recalled fond memories with spirited tales of the original Papa Joe’s, named after Joe Miller, who owned the venue in the 1960s — led to a business partnership with Islamorada residents Bob Lee and Mica Perry.
Charles Hertel enjoys grilling hot dogs for friends off of Dog Beach in Islamorada. Credit: Charles Hertel
Lee is a financier, former owner of about 40 Wendy’s restaurants, and a Hertel fishing client who later became a close friend. Lee’s spouse Mica Perry is a retired boutique shop owner.
“Bob said, ‘Let’s do it,’ and we closed a month later,” Hertel said.
Hertel, a 2012 graduate of Coral Shores High School, is growing the Papa Joe’s Waterfront brand, expanding merchandise offerings that include new tumblers. He also plans to offer catering services, promoted onsite with a new Airstream food truck, to be in place by December.
In addition, two waterfront penthouse one-bedroom, 1.5-bath fish camp suites — built atop the restaurant — are available for overnight accommodations. Rates vary by season.
Hertel’s future plans? “To keep growing.”
His motto: “ONE TEAM, ONE DREAM.”
Where he dines: “Papa Joe’s is my favorite place, honestly. Our chefs do an amazing job. I also really like Florida Keys Steak and Lobster House and The Rhum House at Grassy Flats Resort & Beach Club, both in Marathon.”
Where he explores: The Everglades and the backcountry.
How he relaxes: At the Islamorada lighthouse (Alligator Lighthouse, known as the Alligator Reef Light Station) on a nice calm day late afternoon, floating around in the water.