Reefs, Wrecks & Wonder
From Key Largo to Key West, the Keys sit beside the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, a protected marine world with coral reefs, historic wrecks, mangroves and more than 5,000 species of plants and animals. Translation: bring your mask. The ocean has been showing off.
The Benwood wreck off Key Largo is a shallow World War II-era dive site where colorful fish now cruise the coral-covered remains.
Big Wreck Energy
Key Largo
Key Largo is famous for coral formations, shipwrecks and a few underwater celebrities.
Start with Christ of the Abyss in John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. It is one of the Keys’ most iconic underwater sights, and yes, it is exactly as memorable as it sounds.
For wreck lovers, Benwood is a favorite open-water dive. This 360-foot merchant marine freighter sank in 1942 after a nighttime collision. Today, it rests in 25 to 45 feet of water and hosts schools of grunt, snapper and goatfish. Very neighborly of it.
Advanced divers can visit the twin 327-foot Coast Guard cutters Bibb and Duane, now “on patrol” about 120 feet below the surface.
Then there is the headliner: Spiegel Grove. This 510-foot retired Navy Landing Ship Dock is a major artificial reef and home to algae, sponges and more than 130 species of fish. It is less “sunken ship” and more “underwater apartment complex with excellent tenants.”
Eagle Wreck. The Eagle lies off Islamorada as a spectacular artificial reef, offering divers a front-row look at how shipwrecks become vibrant marine habitats. Photo Credit: NOAA
Treasure Tales
Islamorada
Islamorada brings history, color and a little mystery to the dive log.
The San Pedro is one of the Keys’ oldest shipwrecks. The 287-ton ship sank in 18 feet of water during a 1733 hurricane, just south of Indian Key. It was part of a Spanish treasure fleet sailing from Cuba to Spain. Today, the site is protected as San Pedro Underwater Archaeological Preserve State Park. Snorkelers, beginner divers and underwater photographers love it for its colorful fish and soft corals.
For advanced or wreck-certified divers, The Eagle is a 287-foot ship resting in 110 feet of water. It lies on its starboard side and is covered with sponges and coral. Big schools of grunts, tarpon and jacks often make appearances, probably because they know it is a good scene.
There is also Conch Wall, a change from the usual reef shapes. It features a sloping wall with barrel sponges and gorgonias along the seafloor.
And then there is the Cannabis Cruiser, a 70-foot trawler once used to smuggle drugs in the 1970s. It was scuttled off Islamorada when the people onboard feared the Coast Guard was coming. Today, moray eels and other sea life have moved in. The fish do not seem concerned about the paperwork.
Thunderbolt Wreck. Resting in the waters off Marathon, the Thunderbolt is one of the Middle Keys’ signature wreck dives, known for its dramatic structure and abundant sea life.
Reefs, T-Bolt & Bridge Bits
Marathon
Marathon and the Middle Keys are full of bright reef life, shallow snorkel spots and wrecks with personality.
Sombrero Reef is one of Marathon’s best-known shallow reef sites, with depths from 6 to 25 feet. Expect colorful marine life, coral spurs and bright white sand between the coral “fingers.” It is a great choice for snorkelers and newer divers.
Coffins Patch, about 4 nautical miles off Key Colony Beach, is another favorite for snorkeling in the Middle Keys. Its reefs are about 10 to 25 feet deep, with tangs, stingrays, grouper, butterflyfish and lobster among the local characters.
For advanced divers, Thunderbolt is known as the queen of Marathon’s wreck fleet. The 188-foot ship sits upright in 120 feet of water, with an observation deck at 75 feet. Divers can follow a line down to the bow, where a giant cable spool makes a very cool photo stop.
For something extra quirky, try Marathon Reef, also called 7 Mile Bridge Reef. It was created with concrete and steel debris from the Old Seven Mile Bridge. The pieces now sit in 115 feet of water and shelter reef fish, corals, gorgonians and other marine life. Yes, even old bridge parts get a second act in the Keys.
The one-of-a-kind Looe Key Reef, an underwater wonder, lies about 6 miles south of Big Pine Key in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary.
Looe Key & Big Busch
Big Pine and the Lower Keys
The Lower Keys bring wild beauty, protected waters and one very impressive wreck.
Looe Key Reef, about 6 miles south of Big Pine Key, is a showstopper. The reef was named after the British frigate H.M.S. Looe, which ran aground in 1744. Today, it is known for patch reefs, spur-and-groove formations and depths from 5 to 35 feet. That makes it appealing for both newer and experienced divers.
The reef is also known for a huge variety of fish life. Snook, permit, arrow crabs, trumpet fish, brittle stars, octopus and sea turtles can all be part of the underwater guest list. No RSVP needed.
Nearby, American Shoal adds more underwater beauty southwest of Big Pine Key.
Then there is the Adolphus Busch Sr., the largest sport-diving wreck in the Lower Keys. This 210-foot island freighter was intentionally sunk in 1998 in 112 feet of water. It sits upright on a sandy bottom, with its wheelhouse at 70 feet and main deck at 90 feet. The wreck is home to southern stingrays, reef sharks, tarpon, goliath grouper, snappers, amberjacks, grunts, blue runners, barracuda and more.
In other words, the Busch is not abandoned. It is booked solid.
Divers swim over the former missile-tracking ship Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg amid thousands of fish Friday, May 21, 2010, off Key West, FL. Image: Don Kincaid
Big Ships, Big Stories
Key West
Key West has reef trips, wreck dives and plenty of underwater drama.
The superstar is the General Hoyt S. Vandenberg, a 522-foot missile tracker that became an artificial reef in 2009. It lies about 7 miles off Key West in nearly 150 feet of water and is recommended for advanced and wreck-certified divers. The Vandenberg is known for barracuda, goliath grouper and the occasional sailfish.
The Cayman Salvager has a stubborn little backstory. The 187-foot steel-hulled ship was meant to become a deep reef in 300 feet of water, but it broke free from its tow cable and settled at 92 feet instead. Hurricane Kate later helped straighten it up. Today, moray eels call it home.
Joe’s Tug is a 75-foot wreck resting in 65 feet of water, surrounded by coral formations.
For reef lovers, Sand Key is a popular destination off Key West. Marked by a large iron lighthouse, it offers coral and marine life for snorkelers and scuba divers.
Farther west, in Dry Tortugas National Park, the Windjammer wreck, also known as Avanti, rests near Loggerhead Reef in 22 feet of water. It sank in 1907 while carrying lumber from Pensacola to Montevideo. Today, it gives snorkelers and divers a haunting, beautiful look at a once-proud sailing ship.
Final Splash
The Florida Keys are not a one-dive wonder. They are a whole island chain of reefs, wrecks, fish, coral, history and “did that turtle just look at me?” moments.
Whether you are floating over a shallow reef, peeking at an old Spanish wreck, or dropping down to a massive artificial reef, the Keys make one thing very clear: the best stories are sometimes below sea level.
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